PARIS. Ngaphandle koloyiko lokudodobala koqoqosho, isimo sengqondo kumboniso wamehlo weSilmo wamva nje wawunethemba.
Umongameli weSilmo, u-Amelie Morel, uthe inani lababonisi kunye nababekhona - abatyeleli abangama-27,000 - bahambelana nenguqulelo yangaphambi kobhubhane. Nge-50% yetrafikhi evela ngaphandle kweFransi, inani elikhulu labatyeleli abavela eMelika nakuMbindi Mpuma, ababengekho kumboniso ngaphambi kokuqala kobhubhane, babuyile ngobuninzi.
“Yayisimangalisa ngokwenene,” utshilo uMorel. "Obu bubungqina bokuba ishishini lethu lisafuna imiboniso kwaye lixesha elibalulekileyo kwishishini lilonke."
“Siyavuya kakhulu ukubuyela eSilmo nabantu abaninzi,” utshilo u-Antonio Jove, intloko yeMarcolin EMEA. Ushicilelo lonyaka ophelileyo belusachatshazelwa zizithintelo ze-COVID-19 kwaye kuhle ukubona abantu ngoku…
Imboni ye-optical iqhube kakuhle kwisiqingatha sokuqala sonyaka, kunye nababonisi behlisa uloyiko lokudodobala koqoqosho. UChristelle Barranger, uMongameli we-EssilorLuxottica EMEA Wholesale, uthe: "Ndicinga ukuba lo mbandela uza kuba sembindini wengxoxo, kodwa mhlawumbi uSilmo ayisiyiyo iqonga leengxoxo kuba lalinomdla kakhulu ngelo xesha." kubo Izigqibo zazisenziwa ngobulumko obungakumbi, [kodwa] kwakukho nemvakalelo yokuzithemba ukuba siya kudlula.”
UMoritz Krüger, umseki kunye ne-CEO yomvelisi okumgangatho ophezulu waseJamani iMykita, uthe: “Abameli bethu beentengiso babenehlobo elihle kwaye seva ukuba abathengi kwihlabathi liphela boneliseke kakhulu ngeentengiso. Imeko iyanelisa kakhulu, ngoko singaphinda sithengise.”
"IYurophu kulo nyaka iyafana neNyakatho Melika kulo nyaka uphelileyo, ngoko ke bekukho ukubuyisela okubaluleke kakhulu," utshilo u-Angelo Trocchia, umphathi oyintloko weqela leSafilo, obuye emva kokushiya umboniso kunyaka ophelileyo. "EYurophu, siqhuba kakuhle, kodwa eMntla Merika yonke into iqhelekile, kuba kunyaka ophelileyo baye banda kakhulu. Ihlabathi liphela lilungile.”
Uqhube wathi: “Ukuba ndijonge phambili, ndiza kulumka ngakumbi ... ukunyuka kwamaxabiso kuyaqala ukwenzeka, kwaye ndiyacinga ukuba ekupheleni konyaka siza kubona ukuba abathengi baqala ukusabela njani kuko.”
Ababukeli bathi iinkampani zamehlo zinobukho obuqinileyo kwiindidi eziphezulu kunye nenqanaba lokungena. "I-Luxury iyakhula ngokucacileyo, kwaye njengoko imbuyekezo [yezonyango] iyancipha, iminikelo yezinga lokungena nayo ikhula ngokukhawuleza okwethutyana," utshilo uBarranger.
Ngeli xesha, ukungavisisani kwekhonkco lokubonelela kusekho kwaye kulindeleke ukuba kuchaphazele amaxabiso ukuya phambili. “Ukunyuka kwamaxabiso kuyenyuka kwezinye iindawo zehlabathi, kungoko sivavanya ukuba iyakuba yintoni le mpembelelo kunye nendlela yokunciphisa,” utshilo uBarranger. “Senza konke esinako ukufunxa ukunyuka kwamaxabiso, kwaye silumke kakhulu ngendlela esinokuwachaphazela ngayo amaxabiso.” .
Ndiyazi ukuba uninzi lwabakhuphisana nabo bawanyusile amaxabiso abo,” utshilo uKrueger. “Asizukuwanyusa amaxabiso, noko hayi kulo nyaka. Kuya kufuneka sibone yonke into eza kuphuhliswa apho. ”
Ukuqaliswa kobuchwephesha be-bottom-up kunye ne-bottom-up yayingumxholo oyintloko we-fair-day fair, eyaphela ngoSeptemba 26, kwaye yaba ngumxholo wendawo entsha yelali yedijithali. “Sifuna ukuba sisithuthi sokunceda ishishini lamehlo lizenzele elalo inguqu yedijithali,” utshilo uSebastian Brusse, iCEO kunye nomlawuli woyilo kwiJaw Studio Lyon, oncedisa ukubumba ummandla omtsha.
I-EssilorLuxottica - ekuphela kwenkampani yamehlo enkulu yokusebenzisa iiglasi ezihlakaniphile xa isebenzisana ne-Meta kwi-Ray-Ban Stories - iveze into entsha entsha, umgca we-eyewear eyenzelwe ngokukodwa ukudlala phantsi kwelayisensi evela e-Oakley. Izakhelo zenzelwe ukuba zigqitywe ngee-headphones kwaye zineengalo eziguquguqukayo, ngelixa iilensi zisetyenziselwa ukuphucula ukuchasana kwesikrini, kubandakanywa neziboniso ze-OLED, kunye nokucoca ukukhanya okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka.
“Xa ucinga ngeeglasi ezikrelekrele, abantu bathi lisango lekamva, kodwa sele beqalisile ukusetyenziswa kwiiglasi njengemidlalo yevidiyo,” utshilo uBarranger. "Oko kundenza ndibe nomdla kwiiglasi ezihlakaniphile: ngomso ziya kudityaniswa nehlabathi ledijithali."
Inkampani yaseSweden iSkugga ibonisa into eyibanga ukuba itshintsha itekhnoloji yeeglasi ezikrelekrele njengoko iimodyuli zayo zinokudityaniswa kulo naluphi na uhlobo lwezakhelo. U-Alf Ericsson, iGosa eliyiNtloko leMveliso, uchaze ukuba injongo yethu “ayikokwakha itekhnoloji engena kwisixhobo abantu abangayi kusisebenzisa.” “Kwiminyaka emibini edlulileyo, sibone utshintsho olukhulu ekuzimiseleni ukwamkela [abavelisi beglasi yamehlo abathe baqonda ukuba] kungenjalo iinkampani ezinkulu zobugcisa beziya kulawula ishishini leempahla zamehlo ngendlela ebezilawula ngayo ishishini lokubukela.”
Emva kweminyaka esixhenxe yophuhliso, itekhnoloji elungele imveliso iyakwazi ukulinganisa intshukumo kunye nemiba yokusingqongileyo, enoluhlu lweenzuzo ezinokuthi zibe kho emazantsi omlambo, ukusuka kuqikelelo lokuvezwa komsebenzisi kungcoliseko kunye nokukhanya ukubonelela ngemo kunye nolwazi lwezemidlalo. kunye ne-ecosystem evulekileyo yabaphuhlisi be-app. Inkampani ifumene iwonga eliwonga leSilmo d'Or kudidi lweTekhnoloji yokuVeliswa kwezinto ezintsha/eziQhagamshelweyo.
Abakhi-mkhanyo babonisa ukuba imboni ye-optical iye yacotha ukujoyina i-tech tide, ubukhulu becala ngenxa yokuba uninzi lweshishini lisalawulwa ngoogqirha bamehlo abazimeleyo. "I-Optics ihlala ingamashishini osapho kwaye inokumelana netekhnoloji," utshilo uCody Cho, usekela mongameli wentengiso yehlabathi eDita. Ngokwetekhnoloji, iiglasi zisemva kweminyaka emithathu ukuya kwemine.
Umthonyama waseSilicon Valley, uCho wenze idatha ibe yinxalenye yehlabathi likaDita iminyaka. “Sisebenzisa itekhnoloji eninzi ukwenza uqikelelo,” utshilo.
Umzekelo, ezinye iiheavyweights zamehlo zibonakaliswe kumboniso okhethekileyo wokundwendwela ukubonisa amandla abo njengezixhobo zokwenza lula ukuodola kunye nokuphucula ulawulo lwe-inventri, eyayingumxholo wenkcazo nguMlawuli weMicrosoft weNtengiso yeMveliso u-Otman Chiheb.
Kwiminyaka embalwa kamva, uyilo olunefashoni olungaphaya kwe-bezelless njenge-Dita's Embra - imodeli yokuqala engena-bezelles ngokukhethekileyo yabasetyhini kwiminyaka engama-20 - iyamangalisa, ngokutsho komyili uLouis Lee, kodwa kwiminyaka embalwa emva kolawulo lweemodeli ezinentambo ngo-2010, uphawu lwatshintsha. ukuba acetate. izakhelo.
I-brand yenza imali kwimfuno ye-eyewear yayo kwaye ikhulisa iivenkile zayo ezingaxhunyiwe kwi-intanethi kwizitrato zokuthenga eziphezulu, u-Cho uthe, ngokuvulwa kwamva nje kwi-Rodeo Drive e-Beverly Hills kunye ne-Brompton Road e-London. UCho uthe inkampani ijonge ukuvula iivenkile ezisixhenxe okanye ezisibhozo ngaphezulu kweminyaka embalwa ezayo, ijolise kwizixeko ezinjengeMiami, Las Vegas, Mykonos, Shanghai, Dubai kunye neSingapore.
Ukucinga kwakhona ngeempawu zemveli luphawu lweempawu ezininzi zeMarcolin ezinje ngePucci kunye neZegna eziyilwe ngeelogo zabo ezintsha.
Ngokubanzi, abenzi bempahla yamehlo babone imfuno eyomeleleyo ye-chunky, iifreyimu ezimile okwesikwere, iinkcukacha ezitsala amehlo, kunye notshintsho ukusuka kumnyama ukuya kumdaka, oye wabuyela ngasemva kwiminyaka yakutshanje.
Utshintsho ekubekweni kwezinye iingcali lucacile. UShafiro, oye wabandezeleka kwiminyaka yakutshanje ngenxa yokulahleka kweelayisensi ezininzi ezinengeniso kubandakanya iDior, iGucci kunye neFendi, ihlengahlengisa ipotifoliyo yayo yemveliso. Iqela lijonge ukonyusa ubukho balo kwindawo yesinxibo sabasetyhini, umzekelo, uCarolina Herrera, athe watyikitya naye kulo nyaka uphelileyo, kunye nezinye iindlela zokuphila ezifana noBoss kunye no-Isabel Marant, kunye neempawu zabo zePolaroid kunye neCarrera. . . “Ngenene sigubungela uluhlu olubanzi kakhulu ngoku,” utshilo uTrocchia, “Okwangoku siqhuba kakuhle, iilayisensi ezintsha zihamba kakuhle, iilayisensi zelifa zihamba kakuhle, ezethu iimpawu zihamba kakuhle….”
Ezinye iinkampani ezinkulu zenze inkqubela ngokuzinzileyo. I-Safilo ibonise iifreyimu kunye neelensi ezenziwe kwizinto ezihlaziyiweyo ze-Eastman Renew, ngelixa i-Mykita yatshintshela kwizinto eziphathekayo kuzo zonke iifreyimu zayo ze-acetate kwaye ibango lokuba ngowokuqala ukwenza njalo kuwo wonke umgca wayo. akhawunti malunga nesiqingatha sepotfoliyo yabo, ayizange inyuse amaxabiso.
Intombi kaJamie Foxx ithi "akazange aphume esibhedlele iiveki" kwaye "udlale ibhola yepickleball izolo."
Abathengi abaphucukileyo balahla iikhilimu zabo zobuso ezingama-90 eerandi bexhasa le-6 yeedola zokuthoba imibimbi ephuma kuhlobo oluvunyiweyo lukaJane Fonda.
I-WWD kunye ne-Women's Wear Daily ziyingxenye ye-Penske Media Corporation. © 2023 Fairchild Publishing LLC. Onke Amalungelo Agciniwe.
Ixesha lokuposa: May-18-2023